“Dash” towards the finish line of Project Cockpit Revisited? Not even close. I keep adding to my “to do” list. My spare dash was shipped to Autobahn Interiors which is one of the best Porsche upholstery shops in the country..if not the best. I should get it back within a couple-few weeks.
I’ve had this spare dash in storage for several years now. The only reason I bought it was because it was soooo cheap. How cheap was it? $15. Daaaaaamn – right? Not really considering how much it’s going to cost to recover it but still worth it since it was local and the one year only two-piece ’68 dash. It will replace the current dash which I had recovered during the first interior restoration by a local shop but they did a “French Seam” around the gauge cluster.
From what I understand, this method is done because the shop is inexperienced in duplicating the originally vacuum formed dash and/or the owner doesn’t want to pay for the skilled and labor intensive recover. EDIT: The previous sentence is inaccurate. Per Tony, owner of Autobahn Interiors, 1969-1973 dashboards get reupholstered WITH a seam. The seam has nothing to with the skill sets of the shop. However, a two piece style dash can be done without the seam. Back then, it was a little bit of both for me but PCR is all about addressing my past “mistakes”.
Segway to other dash related items: As you can see, the original clock currently resides back in its’ original home. It’s a minor victory to have repaired it myself but more importantly… $200 saved! It started out as a working clock but was two hours slow. Then 15 minutes slow after a thorough cleaning/lubricating with special two-in-one cleaner and low viscosity lubricant product from Radio Shack.
I thought it best to repeat the process before making any adjustments but the second clean and lube made no difference. Time to turn the adjustment screw (see tiny-ass adjustment screw indicated by yellow arrow). I was a big baby about the first adjustment and turned the screw about five degrees (BTW, you don’t need to remove the back cover to access screw. Just peel back the VDO sticker on the white case). Re-installed and observed for 24 hours. Nothing. Ten more or a total of 15 degrees. Observe. Seven minutes slow. Ten more or a total of 25 degrees. Nailed it. A working clock. Victory dance. I must admit, I do like hearing the occasional “thunk” as it is a reminder that “this is a classic car” but mostly…I swear…it sounds much like “stud”. I am fairly certain the car is throwing out positive affirmations because I fixed it myself. The quartz conversions have no “thunk” therefore no “stud”. So sorry.
Still debating whether or not to keep the clock or delete plug. I do like the positive affirmations but PCR is all about removing excess.
Another dash related revisit: I “picked-and-pulled” an original switch delete from the ’68 912 Targa at Partsheaven a couple of weekends ago. I thought that I would some day run some sort of auxiliary light but that’s not going to happen even though I have a set of original hood lights sitting on the shelf. They’ve been there for years and that’s never a good sign.
As long as we’re looking at this area directly beneath the knobs. No radio or factory radio delete plate! I bought and ultimately destroyed a perfectly good ’68L glove box from EASY just for the elephant hyde material since it is, yet another, ’68 only detail. Check out how the two lines on the right of the panel mate up together! Totally planned…I swear…on someone’s grave I don’t like. I guess this is a radio “panel” delete as opposed to radio “plate” delete as seen in Harry’s current classified listing (photo by Harry Hoffman). I had a NOS radio delete plate but sold it.
Anyway, this is not part of PCR. I did this a couple years ago. With the extra elephant hyde material, I made a key chain (originally mentioned here) instead of purchasing the much wanted and well executed Billy Kirk key fob.
Next up: floor mats.